Troubleshooting · Tampa
AC Not Cooling? Start Here
Before you pay a service-call fee: six checks that solve a surprising share of Tampa 'broken AC' calls — and clear signals for when to stop and call a pro.
Quick answer
AC running but not cooling? Check in order: thermostat mode and batteries → air filter → outdoor unit fan spinning → breaker → drain line float switch → ice on the lines. Filters and thermostats are free fixes. Anything electrical, refrigerant or iced-over means call a licensed Tampa tech — most repairs run $150–$600 (September 2026).
The six checks, in order
1. Thermostat
Set to COOL, setpoint at least 3° below room temp, fan on AUTO. Replace the batteries. On FAN-only or HEAT mode you'll get moving warm air that feels like a dead system.
2. Air filter
A completely clogged filter chokes airflow, freezes the coil and stops cooling. In Tampa's dusty, high-pollen months filters can load up in 3–4 weeks. If you can't see light through it, replace it.
3. Outdoor unit — is the fan spinning?
Humming but not spinning = classic dead capacitor ($150–$400 repair). Completely silent = contactor, disconnect or breaker. Spinning but no cool air inside = refrigerant or compressor issue. Do not poke anything through the grille.
4. Breaker
Check the AC breaker in your panel. One reset is fine. If it trips again, stop — repeated trips mean an electrical fault or a dying compressor pulling locked-rotor amps, and resetting it repeatedly makes things worse.
5. Drain line float switch (Tampa special)
Algae clogs the condensate drain, the pan fills, and the float switch cuts cooling — often while the fan keeps running. Look for water around the air handler or a full drain pan. A $75–$250 flush fixes it; prevention is in our guide.
6. Ice anywhere = off, now
Ice on the copper lines or the outdoor unit means a frozen coil. Turn cooling off (fan can stay on to speed thawing) and let it melt fully — a tech can't diagnose a frozen system, and running it can destroy the compressor.
Checks done — still warm? Time for a pro
If the filter's clean, the thermostat's right, the fan spins and there's no ice — the problem is electrical or refrigerant, and both need a licensed tech with gauges and a meter. Most Tampa repairs land between $150 and $600; details and honest repair-vs-replace math are on ourAC repair page.
Total system failure in peak heat with kids, seniors or health conditions at home? That's an emergency — see24/7 options.
- Capacitor / contactor$150 – $400
- Refrigerant leak + recharge$300 – $900
- Fan motor$300 – $700
- Drain line flush$75 – $250
Frequently asked questions
The most common causes in Tampa: a dead capacitor (condenser fan not spinning), low refrigerant from a leak, a frozen evaporator coil from a clogged filter, or a failed contactor. Check the filter and thermostat first — both are free — then call a pro for anything electrical or refrigerant-related.
Warm air usually means the outdoor unit isn't running (capacitor, contactor or disconnect) while the indoor blower keeps pushing air — or the system is low on refrigerant. If the outdoor fan isn't spinning, shut the system off and call for repair; running it can overheat the compressor.
More often than you'd think. Dead batteries, a mode set to HEAT or FAN-only, or a tripped float switch (Tampa's clogged drain lines!) that cuts cooling while the fan keeps running. Two minutes of checks can save a $100 service call.
A frozen evaporator coil — almost always an airflow problem (filthy filter, blocked returns, failing blower) or low refrigerant. Turn the system off and let it thaw completely before the tech comes, or they can't diagnose it. Running it frozen can kill the compressor.
If it's a capacitor or contactor: $150–$400. Refrigerant leak search + recharge: $300–$900. Fan motor: $300–$700. Compiled from national cost data + published local pricing, September 2026 — full table on our cost page.
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